Fashion has always thrived on a little rebellion. Just when you think you’ve mastered the “rules” of getting dressed, the industry finds a way to flip them upside down. First, it was the “wrong shoe theory” — the viral idea by stylist and author Allison Bornstein that encouraged mixing unexpected footwear into polished outfits. Think strappy heels with basketball shorts or leather mules paired with voluminous dresses. The quirkier the combination, the more interesting the result.
Now, insiders are leaning into a similar principle with outerwear. Enter: the “wrong jacket theory.” Instead of matching your coat to the mood of your look, this trend invites you to clash them — pairing a glamorous party dress with a parka, or a delicate ballet ensemble with something a bit more utilitarian. The effect? An outfit that feels instantly fresh, a little offbeat, and impossible to ignore.
From Newsletter to Runway
Writer Jalil Johnson recently dedicated an entire post to the theory in his newsletter, Consider Yourself Cultured. His take on why it resonates? Today’s designers aren’t just creating new silhouettes — they’re offering styling ideas. “We’ve reached a fascinating point in fashion where designers seem to be offering styling propositions rather than exclusively focusing on introducing new silhouettes,” Johnson explains. These proposals spark conversation, drive social media buzz, and ultimately inspire customers to buy into the fantasy.
That philosophy was all over the Spring/Summer 2025 runways. Burberry, for example, styled a glittering paillette dress under a casual anorak. No. 21’s Alessandro Dell’Acqua opened his show with a ‘60s-inspired cocktail mini tucked under a utilitarian parka. At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons turned heads when they sent a mirrored party dress down the runway beneath a cheery yellow raincoat — a high-fashion ode to “thunderstorms, but make it chic.”
Even Ferragamo offered a softer spin: a head-to-toe ballet-inspired look topped with a lightweight jacket cut with a dramatic high-low hem. The message across all of these collections was clear: don’t be afraid of contrast.
Not as New as It Seems
Though it feels buzzy now, the wrong jacket theory has been bubbling for some time. As Johnson points out, British Vogue was already spotlighting the concept last October, highlighting the surprising outerwear choices seen on the Spring/Summer 2024 runways at Gucci, Dries Van Noten, Marni, and Khaite. In many ways, the theory is part of fashion’s ongoing love affair with contrasts — high vs. low, couture vs. casual, delicate vs. tough.
Why It Works
At first glance, the idea of wearing the “wrong” jacket might feel counterintuitive. Why put a raincoat over sequins or a parka over chiffon? But that tension is exactly what makes the look so compelling. It forces the eye to pause, take in the contrast, and reconsider the rules of style.
Johnson sums it up perfectly: “The beauty of this concept lies in how it empowers the individual wearing the clothes.” Just like with the wrong shoe theory, there’s really no such thing as making a mistake here. The point is to go against your first instinct. Instead of reaching for the obvious tailored coat to match your sleek dress, shrug on something rugged. Instead of a leather biker jacket with jeans, maybe throw a tailored blazer over your gym set. It’s about creating friction — and with it, intrigue.
How to Try the Wrong Jacket Theory
If you’re tempted to test-drive the look but not sure where to start, think of it as an experiment in opposites:
- Party dress + casual outerwear: Layer your sequined slip or satin midi under a sporty bomber, raincoat, or parka. The more utilitarian the jacket, the cooler the clash.
- Tailored separates + cozy toppers: Swap your structured blazer for an oversized puffer coat. The contrast of sharp lines and pillowy volume feels modern.
- Athleisure + sharp tailoring: Try pairing leggings and sneakers with a sharply cut trench or even a tuxedo jacket for an elevated street-style vibe.
- Romantic silhouettes + rugged layers: Think tulle skirts or ballet-inspired dresses grounded by a leather moto jacket or denim topper.
The best part? You don’t need to buy anything new to pull it off. Chances are, your closet already contains plenty of jackets and coats you can reimagine in new contexts.
A Theory That Sticks
Much like its footwear predecessor, the wrong jacket theory seems poised to outlast the typical viral fashion moment. It’s less about a specific garment and more about a way of thinking — an open invitation to play, mix, and disrupt. That makes it endlessly adaptable to changing seasons and personal styles.
After all, the fashion industry’s most memorable moments often come from bending the rules. Whether it’s sequins under an anorak, balletcore beneath a raincoat, or something entirely of your own making, the wrong jacket theory proves that sometimes the wrong choice is exactly what makes a look feel so right.
