When fashion looks backward for inspiration, it often lands somewhere between the 1970s and 1990s. But this fall, designers have turned the clock much further back — all the way to the 16th century. Yes, Shakespearean fashion has taken center stage on the runways, bringing corsets, ruffled collars, puffed sleeves, and opulent fabrics into the modern conversation.
From Chanel to Dior to Alexander McQueen, some of the biggest names in fashion are channeling the Elizabethan era (1558–1603), an age of lavish dressing and theatrical silhouettes. It’s a striking departure from the minimalism and Y2K nostalgia that have dominated recent seasons, proving that fashion’s love affair with history knows no limits.
A Literary Muse
Dior’s Fall 2024 collection offers one of the clearest nods to Shakespearean influence. Former creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, a novel that chronicles the life of a young nobleman who mysteriously transforms into a woman and lives across centuries. Fittingly, Chiuri infused Elizabethan touches into her designs — corseted tops, ruffle details, and dramatic ruff collars — echoing the gender-fluid spirit of Woolf’s story and the era itself.
And Dior isn’t alone. Chanel, McQueen, and Altuzarra also reintroduced the ruff, the iconic pleated collar worn by both men and women in Shakespeare’s time. These exaggerated accessories made bold statements on the runway, embodying a sense of drama that feels just as daring now as it did 400 years ago.
From Stage to Street
Fashion historian Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell notes that the Shakespearean revival isn’t limited to high fashion. Alice + Olivia, for instance, took the theme to playful new heights with knitwear featuring Shakespeare quotes, tiered lace skirts, and puff-sleeved blouses. The brand even dispatched designers to Stratford-upon-Avon — Shakespeare’s birthplace — to study authentic costumes from the Royal Shakespeare Company.
The Bard’s influence has also been felt in pop culture. Ariana Grande famously wore a ruff collar and embroidered mustard-yellow ensemble in a viral Saturday Night Live skit set in the Renaissance. Musician Chappell Roan leaned into Elizabethan flair at The Daily Front Row’s fashion awards earlier this year, donning a floral McQueen mini dress complete with frilly sleeves and a dramatic collar. Clearly, the look isn’t just for the runway; it’s making its way into entertainment and celebrity style too.
Fashion’s Gender Play
One of the reasons Elizabethan fashion resonates today is its fluidity. Shakespeare himself blurred gender lines, with men often playing female roles on stage. Clothing reflected this ambiguity, with ruffs, makeup, and exaggerated silhouettes appearing in both men’s and women’s attire.
“Ruff collars were entirely gender neutral in the 16th century,” explains fashion historian Sonya Abrego. “They could be worn open or closed, by men and women alike.” In today’s cultural moment — where discussions of gender expression are front and center — the Elizabethan revival feels particularly timely.
Making It Wearable
Of course, stepping out in a towering ruff collar or voluminous gown might not be practical for daily life. But fashion experts agree there are subtle ways to nod to the trend without going full Renaissance fair.
Chrisman-Campbell suggests experimenting with proportions, such as pairing oversized, voluminous sleeves with a fitted skirt or pants. Abrego recommends incorporating ornate details like gemstone embellishments, metallic aglets, or intricate lace — all staples of the 16th century, and all accessible in modern design.
Fabrics are another entry point. Luxurious silks, brocades, and lace were prized during Shakespeare’s time, and today’s market is full of similar textures that bring a touch of old-world opulence to contemporary wardrobes. A velvet blouse or lace-trimmed dress can feel Elizabethan-inspired without veering into costume.
A Renaissance of Style
The resurgence of Shakespearean fashion proves that style doesn’t have to be minimal to feel modern. Sometimes, drama and excess are exactly what the moment calls for. Ruffled collars, puffed sleeves, and rich fabrics remind us that clothing can be more than just functional — it can be a performance in its own right.
Whether you’re daring enough to don a statement ruff or prefer subtle Elizabethan hints in your accessories and fabrics, this trend offers a way to embrace romance, play with gender expression, and celebrate fashion’s theatrical side. After all, as Shakespeare himself once wrote: All the world’s a stage. And this fall, the runway just might be its grandest theater.
